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multirotor meme
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How do you discharge your batteries?
I know, best answer is go fly... ![Big Grin Big Grin]()
OK, you flew, you crashed on your first battery, and you have 5 more fully charged lipos that you need to reduce to storage charge. Any tips, tricks, or contraptions (or recommended links to such)? I've got a SC-608 charger and its maximum discharge rate is 5W. On a fully charged 4S battery that gives me a discharge current of 0.3A. It is very slow...
It would be nice if I could monitor the voltage while I'm at it - it would be even better if I could wire something in with my charger to cut off the discharge when it reaches storage voltage. I'd be happy discharging at 1 or 2C.
Anyway, just thought I'd ask to see how others are doing this.
Thanks.

OK, you flew, you crashed on your first battery, and you have 5 more fully charged lipos that you need to reduce to storage charge. Any tips, tricks, or contraptions (or recommended links to such)? I've got a SC-608 charger and its maximum discharge rate is 5W. On a fully charged 4S battery that gives me a discharge current of 0.3A. It is very slow...
It would be nice if I could monitor the voltage while I'm at it - it would be even better if I could wire something in with my charger to cut off the discharge when it reaches storage voltage. I'd be happy discharging at 1 or 2C.
Anyway, just thought I'd ask to see how others are doing this.
Thanks.
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DIY Assemble 2205 2-4S Brushless Motor
Hi guys, I came across this diy motor just now, and it got me thinking, sorry in advance for my ignorance!
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When you wind motors, you put say 10 CW turns on one pole before putting 10 CCW turns on the next pole, yeah? The windings each create a North or South electromagnetic pole depending on the CW or CCW wind, and the direction the current flows?
More turns, more torque, more amperage draw and the lower the Kv, right? The less turns, the faster each signal completes its circuit giving higher Kv or RPM, but the lower the magnitude of EMF on each pole, so less torque and less amperage draw.
So I was wondering, if you were to wind 5 turns on each pole, then continue another circuit putting another 5 turns on each pole what effect would this have?

When you wind motors, you put say 10 CW turns on one pole before putting 10 CCW turns on the next pole, yeah? The windings each create a North or South electromagnetic pole depending on the CW or CCW wind, and the direction the current flows?
More turns, more torque, more amperage draw and the lower the Kv, right? The less turns, the faster each signal completes its circuit giving higher Kv or RPM, but the lower the magnitude of EMF on each pole, so less torque and less amperage draw.
So I was wondering, if you were to wind 5 turns on each pole, then continue another circuit putting another 5 turns on each pole what effect would this have?
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X4h107l fc in syma x5 body
I tried putting a Hubsan h107l flight controller into a Syma x5 crash pack (frame, motors, etc).
Everything is hooked up correctly, but the copter is unable to stabilize, glopping wildly as you try to take off. I have learned it is PID programming which stabilizes the craft. Perhaps PID settings are very different for shaft mount propeller micro-quads from geared propeller x5 size quads.
I suppose my experiment is a success, in determining something that wont work,, but I am hoping to learn more and of course result in a working quad, with the more aggressive tilt and yaw, but still a humble, safe, cheap feather-weight x5 clone.
Is there anything I could do to make it work?
Everything is hooked up correctly, but the copter is unable to stabilize, glopping wildly as you try to take off. I have learned it is PID programming which stabilizes the craft. Perhaps PID settings are very different for shaft mount propeller micro-quads from geared propeller x5 size quads.
I suppose my experiment is a success, in determining something that wont work,, but I am hoping to learn more and of course result in a working quad, with the more aggressive tilt and yaw, but still a humble, safe, cheap feather-weight x5 clone.
Is there anything I could do to make it work?
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Who said there ain't women in FPV?
Granted, there aren't many of us - yet. But that's about to change
For me it has been 6 months since I've gotten to build and fly my first quad. As of today, by every definition, I am totally addicted and this is my way of introducing myself here:

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Taranis timer
Question
30 second call out on timer Taranis
How can I get my Taranis to do a vocal call out every 30 seconds instead minutes on a timer set up to throttle?
30 second call out on timer Taranis
How can I get my Taranis to do a vocal call out every 30 seconds instead minutes on a timer set up to throttle?
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brushed Hollow Cup Motor
i was looking for a brushed 8520 motor.. some of them are advertised as Hollow Cup Motor. Is there any pros/cons?
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closer (hold you)
Was a very nice session today, even closer/more luck, more moves, and no shaking this time!
I
this quad so much right now that i found it deserves a love song. ![Big Grin Big Grin]()
I


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Board flipped and getting some crazy problem
I've rebuilt this micro like 30 times probably in different ways and so I have a very good grip on how it works. But due to cramming a ridiculous amount of components into such a tiny frame I had to go to the extreme to make it work... which I ended up having to flip both the 4in1 esc and the flight controller upside down.
Previously I had the FC turned 90º to the right and that was a very easy fix under the configuration tab by changing the yaw to 90º.
However this time it just refuses to work correctly and I'm not even sure if it's even the orientation at this point.
First I checked motors tab on each motor to figure out which motor was spinning up when I turned up #1, #2 and so on. The esc is rolled 180º so #1 is now #3, and #2 is #4. I made a custom mix to fix all of this and confirmed it by holding the quad and using the transmitter to pitch roll and yaw it and I can feel the quad responding correctly. As for the orientation I simple changed pitch to 180º and now when I move the quad around it correctly shows it moving on the setup tab.
However, when I try to fly it, it just goes nuts. Like yaw is inverted or something. Even when I'm holding it and try to yaw it about 30% throttle it just starts jittering like crazy. I changed motor_yaw_direction to -1 and 1 and both do the same thing. All props are on correctly. When I yaw to the left, the front left motor and rear right motor spin up, and the opposite for yawing to the right. I just don't understand what is wrong here.. It's driving me nuts...
Previously I had the FC turned 90º to the right and that was a very easy fix under the configuration tab by changing the yaw to 90º.
However this time it just refuses to work correctly and I'm not even sure if it's even the orientation at this point.
First I checked motors tab on each motor to figure out which motor was spinning up when I turned up #1, #2 and so on. The esc is rolled 180º so #1 is now #3, and #2 is #4. I made a custom mix to fix all of this and confirmed it by holding the quad and using the transmitter to pitch roll and yaw it and I can feel the quad responding correctly. As for the orientation I simple changed pitch to 180º and now when I move the quad around it correctly shows it moving on the setup tab.
However, when I try to fly it, it just goes nuts. Like yaw is inverted or something. Even when I'm holding it and try to yaw it about 30% throttle it just starts jittering like crazy. I changed motor_yaw_direction to -1 and 1 and both do the same thing. All props are on correctly. When I yaw to the left, the front left motor and rear right motor spin up, and the opposite for yawing to the right. I just don't understand what is wrong here.. It's driving me nuts...
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Lucky crash / landing
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Eachine EV800 pro?
I swear I saw Eachine was making a diversity/DVR version of the EV800. I can't find this anywhere. Did I dream this?
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Paris Drone Festival Live Streams & Info
Saw Oscar's note in the chat box. I've only found one live stream so far (Pablo Sotes). If you find any others (or other links), you may use this thread to post them.
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I'm back!
Back after a long hiatus, great to soar the sky once again! ![Smile Smile]()

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Hello from Michigan
Hi,
I've been on this forum for a few months now. I built my first quad about 4 months ago and I've been flying fpv for about two months now. It seems like longer :-)
The quad I currently have is a QAV 210 clone with a King Kong force 200 kit which came with 2204 motors, 12 amp escs and a Cc3d atom fc.
Initially I had a lot of problems with the open pilot configuration and tuning and I was getting fairly discouraged. Eventually I re-flashed it with betaflight and all the sudden the quad was doing exactly what it was supposed to do. What a difference! I try to fly a few packs every day. I also flew on fpv freerider every night but I've backed off that now. I really need a DVR or hd cam!
Anyway this forum has been a huge help as I've progressed so far. I'm going to be building an armattan chameleon soon and I will try to set up a build log when I start.
I've been on this forum for a few months now. I built my first quad about 4 months ago and I've been flying fpv for about two months now. It seems like longer :-)
The quad I currently have is a QAV 210 clone with a King Kong force 200 kit which came with 2204 motors, 12 amp escs and a Cc3d atom fc.
Initially I had a lot of problems with the open pilot configuration and tuning and I was getting fairly discouraged. Eventually I re-flashed it with betaflight and all the sudden the quad was doing exactly what it was supposed to do. What a difference! I try to fly a few packs every day. I also flew on fpv freerider every night but I've backed off that now. I really need a DVR or hd cam!
Anyway this forum has been a huge help as I've progressed so far. I'm going to be building an armattan chameleon soon and I will try to set up a build log when I start.
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Replacing one bad esc in 4-in-1
One of my esc's must be bad because 3 motors spin up and number 4 just spurts around a little. This is a 4-in-one esc. I'm thinking I can just add in another single esc to replace the bad one. Power it and set the signal wire to the flight controller. I would be interested in your thoughts.
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650mah 3s
Is the 650mah 3s batteries most popular now for mini quad fpv?
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new user
Hi all. Gary from Missouri. Great website and really looking forward to working my way around and talking with others
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Hello All!
I am new to the forum, not new to forum software as I am active member on multiple sites. I decided to join here to read some more about Oscar's posts about Blackbox PID tuning as I am currently trying to take that on myself with my new custom DIY ZMR 250 CF frame build. I got hooked on quads when I ordered a cheap Syma X5 and flew it for a few weeks; then I needed to upgrade to something with more power for lifting a SJ cam which I ended up getting the Syma X8 because of the good experience with X5. Then I bought everything needed to build a custom 250mm racer/FPV; still waiting on the FPV gear to arrive (VTX, Cam, VRX) BUT trying to get this thing somewhat tuned with my SJCam + LOS. I can see it has major tuning issues, but what a learning curve as well.
Anyway; Hope to be around for a bit. Thanks for the awesome site!
Anyway; Hope to be around for a bit. Thanks for the awesome site!
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SPC90 BNF Brushed Micro FPV Racing Quad
SPC90 BNF Brushed Micro FPV Racing Drone Review
First things first. A big Thank You to Jona from GearBest for this review opportunity! I wish to be transparent here and explain the SPC90 links are my personal affiliate links. I am not here to get rich, only out to offer honest reviews and provide publicity for the supplier. Mixing work with my hobby and passion is simply a bonus.
First Impressions
From SPC Maker, comes the 90mm SPC90 BNF (bind-and-fly). It arrives in a nice, clean looking, tin case, which does well in keeping everything in its place and secure during transport.
Inside the fancy metal box we find the SPC90, pre-built with your chosen receiver and ready to bind, a 1s lipo, 2 sets of props, a carbon fiber prop remover tool, and 4 tiny extra zip-ties.
Specifications
Wheelbase: 90mm
Material: 3K carbon fiber
Dimensions: 63.5 x 63.5 x 32mm
Frame weight: 6.5g
AUW: 55g
Motors: 8.5x20mm (8520) 3.7V coreless
Flight time: Approximately 5 minutes
Flight controller: F3 EVO brushed 2.0
Processor: STM32F303CCT6
Receiver: DSM2 Satellite / FrSky SBUS PPM / FlySky PPM
Battery: 3.7V 500mAh 25C
Propeller length: 55mm
Camera: 600TVL
FPV transmitter: 5.8G 25mW 48CH
Frequency: 5362 - 5945MHz
Indicator: 8 LED lights for CH1 - CH8; another 6 for Band A - Band F
Transmission power: 13 + / - 1dBm
Antenna type: omnidirectional cloverleaf
Antenna impedance: 50 ohm
Sensor: 1/4 inch CMOS
Input format: NTSC / PAL switchable
Pixels: 720 x 540px ( PAL ); 640 x 480px ( NTSC )
Resolution: 600TVL
Wide-angle lens: 120 degree ( H ); 100 degree ( V )
Power: 200 - 215mA at 5V DC input
Operating voltage: 2.9 - 5.5V
Overview
The frame is solid and robust with quite a low profile. I like the vertical arms and how they interlock into the upper and lower plates of the frame. It handled my tough crashes very well, with the worst only popping an arm out of its fitting in the top plate (high speed, strait into my barbecue lol). Easily put back in place by loosening the upper nylon screws. Weight is a bit on the heavy side for a micro brushed build at 44.6g without the battery, and 59.5 with the included 500mAh 25c lipo. Other than a weird plug, the battery has performed well. Taking an average of approximately 550mAh according to my charger and providing flight times of 4.5 minutes or more depending on the mood of the flight.
The 8520 motors are cleverly mounted in the vertical arms and secured with adhesive lined heat shrink. This way of mounting is great for supporting the bottom caps of the motors, as well as protecting the can itself and keeping motors from becoming misaligned, as they sometimes do with rubber grommets. The drawback here is the clearance available to position different propellers as low as possible on the shaft. With that said, it did seem to handle out-of-balance props much better than grommets do.
Under the top plate we find a very clean and well organized build. The F3 EVO FC board is great (a personal go-to FC for brushed builds, even has the ability to run 2s). It comes flashed with Cleanflight (pre 2.0) and secured by foam tape with a zip-tie holding it and the receiver to the frame. The SPC90 uses motor plugs, so no soldering there when it is time for new motors. On the other hand, the battery plug is unique, not the usual JST or micro Losi plugs we normally see with batteries of this form factor.
The Rx, an 8ch micro FrSky D8 compatible in my case, is connected via SBUS and having a bind button makes it easily bound with a pair of tweezers, or similar, without removing the top plate. An excellent receiver for micro builds.
A 48 channel AIO cam/VTx is mounted up front with foam tape at its base, and the upper section of the rear PCB fitted into a cutout of the carbon fiber top plate (insulated w/ a strip of poly film) and a zip-tied as well, fastened to the base of the frame. Channels are changed with dip switches and not the easiest thing to get to in such a tight build, but the biggest issue I found with the SPC90 was when I first looked through the goggles to see that the lens was completely out of focus and unflyable FPV. For me, this was a 5 minute fix. For a beginner or someone who simply wants something truly BNF this may present a problem (I was unable to find any other occurrences of this, so hopefully, just some bad luck). The video antenna is, in my opinion, a classic give-n-take. While it does interfere with plugging in the battery and USB, it offers a great way to protect and use a clover-leaf style antenna on a micro-quad. Signal is very clear during normal flight, only struggling when flying straight at the receiver due to the RF dead zone of the antenna in combination with the carbon fiber frame.
Flight
Overall The SPC90 is quite a stable flyer, but does exhibit a pendulum feel caused by the high position of the props in relation with its low slung central mass. Because of this, it’s personally not my favorite micro for freestyle/acro, but, and that’s a big ‘but’, I do love it for racing and proximity flying, it felt very nice. Having vertically positioned arms means there is almost zero wasted thrust and, although I do not have actual scientific data, fast forward flight did seem to require much less throttle increase to maintain altitude, when compared to other micros. In theory horizontal arms create downforce during forward flight because of the forward pitch angle we fly, while vertical arms would, again in theory, create some lift. Again I wish I had a way to get some actual data on this but for now, it’s just a micro lol.
Conclusion
All in all, I am a fan. I think my only suggestion would be a more standardized battery plug or at least provide an extra battery if keeping with a unique style of plug. I think for someone learning or just looking for a BNF would be pleased, provided no bad luck camera issues. As well as someone experienced or keen to make modifications. Myself, I plan to make a couple personal “tweaks” of my own and definitely keep it in the “go-to” section of my RC shelf…. Ok… shelves.

Find your SPC90 here!
Thanks for reading.
-DroneOfPrey-
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ESCs and motors burning up
Hello everybody,
I'm a beginner having some troubles. I am running the following setup:
EMAX 2205 2300kv
Dys Xms30a - flashed with Blheli 14.85 multishot
Brainfpv rev1 (8k/8k)
After a short maiden flight (40sec of pretty much hovering and slow forward flight in acro mode with no issues) I disarmed the quad and crashed from 1m into tall grass. I recovered the quad, disconnected the lipo and brought the quad back to start again.
I checked the motors for debries and everything seemed all right.
When connecting the lipo again the ESC did not make the usual sounds (as I could tell one of them did not jeep as usual, but don't remember exactly how it beeped). One second afterwards (with quad disarmed) motor 2 gave up smoke, and had 3 burned coils.
I disconnected the lipo and checked everything for shorts (there weren't any). As I had a backup motor I replaced it. As soon as I connected the lipo motor twitched (the quad was not armed, tx wasn't even on) and burned also (same coils).
Do you have any ideas on what I could be missing?
Is 8k/8k too much for these escs running multishot?
I checked and the motor screws were not touching the coils, they weren't even visible.
Thanks!
I'm a beginner having some troubles. I am running the following setup:
EMAX 2205 2300kv
Dys Xms30a - flashed with Blheli 14.85 multishot
Brainfpv rev1 (8k/8k)
After a short maiden flight (40sec of pretty much hovering and slow forward flight in acro mode with no issues) I disarmed the quad and crashed from 1m into tall grass. I recovered the quad, disconnected the lipo and brought the quad back to start again.
I checked the motors for debries and everything seemed all right.
When connecting the lipo again the ESC did not make the usual sounds (as I could tell one of them did not jeep as usual, but don't remember exactly how it beeped). One second afterwards (with quad disarmed) motor 2 gave up smoke, and had 3 burned coils.
I disconnected the lipo and checked everything for shorts (there weren't any). As I had a backup motor I replaced it. As soon as I connected the lipo motor twitched (the quad was not armed, tx wasn't even on) and burned also (same coils).
Do you have any ideas on what I could be missing?
Is 8k/8k too much for these escs running multishot?
I checked and the motor screws were not touching the coils, they weren't even visible.
Thanks!
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