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Introducing MRSAD - 3.5" Long Range

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Hi Folks,

Just finished building MRSAD - stands for Micro Remote Semi Autonomous Drone Smile

The intent here was to build a stealth long range rig that I could run iNav on and try some long range waypoint missions where might I lose video and radio link. All up, it weighs 275g with a 2S 18650 pack, so I'd need to forgo the 1.3ghz VTX and antenna to get it under 250g. Since micro frames are so small, I knew I would need to be careful with component and antenna placement, so I separated transmitters from receivers and flight electronics.. FC, ESC, and camera board are in the middle, VTXs are on the underside, and GPS and Rx are on the top side. Hopefully the carbon helps shield some of the noise. There's literally not a spare cubic centimeter of room on this quad and I had to design some 3D printed parts to protect the VTXs from the battery. I'm running BF 4.1.2 currently, but I'll flash iNav once they release their version of RPM filtering.

I haven't seen any micros with 1.3ghz video, and since Matek makes a relatively small transmitter, I thought I'd give it a try. I knew I wanted a DVR as well to record when I'm out of video range, and I wanted my OSD elements recorded too. So rather than just getting a DVR, I got a 5.8ghz VTX and DVR combo. So this guy has two microSD cards on it recording video - one HD from the turtle, and one of the FPV feed with OSD. The challenge with the Matek is that it requires 6V minimum, and my FC only has BECs for 5V. So I got a pololu step up voltage regulator that takes battery voltage and outputs 12V. Cool thing is it has a pin that will shut off the regulator if it doesn't see voltage, so I set up PINIOs to turn off the regulator from an AUX switch.  And got a second pololu board to power my 5.8ghz vtx, so I can switch between 1.3ghz 5.8ghz, and both while flying!

Only had a chance to test-hover it yet, but it was hovering smoothly and drawing about 8.5 amps at 40% throttle.. that's lower than I expected. Maybe these 3.5" avan props are that much more efficient.  I did spend a lot of time researching the most efficient motors, and the Xing 1404 looked the most efficient at high currents, though they didn't have data at low current, so I had to extrapolate. I have some Spintech 1304 motors I can swap out if they're more efficient - static thrust tests has them drawing 2 amps each while outputting 75g on 3x3, so they may be a hair more efficient.

I'll keep this thread updated with flight tests once I get a chance to try it outside.

Specs:
Outcast Droneworks MicroHawk Frame
3250mAh 30amp 2S Li-Ion (also from Outcast.. gonna try some 4500-5000mAh 21700 cells too)
Holybro Kakute F7 Mini Flight Controller (has an iNav target and enough IO for all my crazy devices)
Aikon AK32 32amp ESC
iFlight XING 1404 4600kv Motors
Emax Avan Scimitar 3.5x2.8x3 Props
Caddx Baby Turtle HD camera + DVR
TBS Crossfire Diversity
Matek M8Q-5883 GPS + Compass (can't get compass working on betaflight currently)
Matek 1G3 600mw VTX
NamelessRC 5.8ghz 400mw VTX
TBS linear antenna for 5.8ghz
Matek V Dipole antenna for 5.8ghz
Immortal T and stock dipole ("Immortal L") for Xfire
VIFLY Finder 2 beeper

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F4 onboard current question

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I thought I saw info somewhere that the fc amp meter is the total combined amperage pulled from the battery,but I cannot find it today.
I have my f4 ADC voltage and current meters dialed in pretty close with the mah battery charge method.
I have 2 questions:
Is the current going to be relatively accurate?
Can I assume at a straight up hard throttle punch, when I see 20A max, that each motor is only pulling a couple of amps? Maybe 4-5 max?

VTX Issues

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I have a Nazgul5 that I crashed and the video went out.  It appeared the antenna connector became disconnected, so I figured the VTX was no good anymore.  I bought the PandaRC VT5804M V2 and I installed and still a black screen.  I checked the connections and they seemed correct.  After researching, one possibility FC might be the problem.  One other thing I noticed is when I look at the FC wiring diagram, it appears the FC takes a 7-28V and the VTX is 7-24V...I have no idea what that means.  Does that mean the VTX is not compatible?  How should I go about investigating this?

Horizon Hobbies Weighs in on Remote ID

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Any chance we can give Horizon some constructive criticism on this video?



It's great that they are trying to get the word out, but I think their video would be more effective if they dropped the whole "drones and anything with a camera is bad" bit.  :-(


Worried that this will just result in a whole bunch of comments telling the FAA to ignore anything without a camera and blame drones for everything.  And we all know the FAA has no interest in redefining what a UAS is and making any exemption for a traditional model aircraft.

Hubsan Balance Charger blinking Red

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Hello team,

I was given a hubsan balance charger with the Taranis Qx7 controller. I have a gaoneng 3500MAH 2s 7.6V lipo that I used in it down to about 6.5 volts. I'm plugging it into the balance charger and just getting blinking red lights. Am I doing something wrong????

1108 motors

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Is there a reason that I do not see hardly any builds with 1108 motors? I am thinking on using the emax Rs1108 5200kv motors on a 2.5 inch 4s build. I have the rotorx 1105 4000kv in it now but wanted to use those in a 2” build and get new motors for the 2.5”. The reason I wanted to use the 1108s is because according to the testing charts emax used 16v for a lot of the testing. Most 1106 motors only show as 3s motors from what I can find. Is there a better 4s 5000kv option out there?

|Velocidrone|Scenery for Freestyle practice.

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Hi there, guys. 
I want to share with you an scenery created in Velocidrone by a youtuber i follow. It's useful for throttle management, and some other freestyle skills.
To install it, just go to the main menu in Velocidrone, then go to track editor and search for "freestyle+land" by QuadMX



Hope you guys find it useful.

INAV Nav Launch Problem

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Using a 722-Wing FC with a FrySKy R9 Rx.

FC arms and all servos appear to work perfect. 

Manual, Horizon, RTH all set up on a 3-position switch and everything appears to work fine.

Have Arming set up on Channel 6 in Taranis X9D Plus using S2 Knob and Arming set up on Channel 6 in "ARM MODE" in FC and it works fine.

However, I set up Nav Launch on Channel 6 as well but as I use the S2 knob and roll through the bracketed block for Nav Launch it will not arm but as I roll it on past it and into the bracketed block for ARM it will actually arm.

Cannot figure out why NAV LAUNCH will not arm.

Appreciate any advice, suggestions.

Thanks.

Time-Lapse! 5” Rooster build

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Old parts removed from a friends broken frame and all cleaned up. Reworked almost every solder joint and replaced worn, damaged wires throughout. Came out super clean! I think he will be pleased Wink

EV800D

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New member here. Selling my EV800Ds. Had them a bit over a year. They were a great beginner goggle, but upgrading to Fatsharks. DVR works great. Comes with all cables and carrying bag.$50 plus shipping CONUS. I have them also listed on FB marketplace. PayPal only.

Tinyhawk S with JESC 48KHZ

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Does anyone know if this JESC 48KHZ thing works on the Tinyhawk S?

Drone/GoPro spent night in desert, FOUND IT! Learn from these mistakes

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Yeah, so...been havin a great time flying and getting mad footage.  Working out the ReelsteadyGo issues with GoPro5...been good. I have a "spotter" with me, generally a friend, but this scenario occurred that broke line of sight and I didn't expect and video/signal dropped fast.  I punched it to head skyward, got video back and righted the drone, saw a road and dove for it, but again then lost line of sight, which made control go away again.  I do a full breakdown below, for others to learn from, but also welcome any experienced opinions to fill in any thoughts/opinions I missed or could benefit from.

How it happened and seemed in real time:

It all happened quick...I felt I had adequate altitude and my spacial awareness just seemed like where I was, shouldn't be a problem.  So, when I suddenly got rssi audible warnings from my Tarranis, as well as a breaking video feed, I was like...oh sh*t....come back asap to close range.  I initiated a dive down toward my location from an upper altitude on a canyon ridge (big mistake).  In the moment, I swear I recall seeing 3.5v'ish in the readout, but being I felt like I should be at plenty save distance and altitude, just immediately (in a heartbeat of time) suspected battery dying, come back asap.  As I dive down, video feed goes nearly full snow and tarranis says rssi critical....I think "punch it" for altitude and try to keep flying blind.  

Suddenly, video returns crystal clear, but in the moment I am still thinking "land".  Being in unfamiliar canyons, I had lost sense of direction in the vid loss, but saw a dirt path and aimed for it.  I head down again, and snow with audible warnings return.  I see a crude outline of the path/road and cut props right before impact.

At this point, I hear "telemetry lost".  I begin a search of where I recall being but after 2 hours and night coming (in the canyons/desert), I leave.  Through the night I think about my flight path, as best I recall, and start to think back in my mind, where I should search.  

Next day (this morning) I go back out, retrace some areas.  The day prior I basically rock climbed this treacherous ascent up the canyon side.  I was aired down to 20psi, have a rear locker, but stock lift on 31's...it was mega tough but made it.  Low and behold, I was so focused on the off roading conditions, I was actually driving right past it.  Today, with my gf with me, I said...ya know, I was focused on climbing this road, I didn't really look beside it.  Literally in minutes, there it was...sitting.

Aftermath:

Crash site was pretty basic.  The drone was 100% fine...not even prop damage.  Battery slid forward, hit the gopro/mount and ejected the GoPro, but battery was still attached by the strap.  Battery DISCONNECTED though when it slid forward (explains the "telemetry lost" warning I got) and why driving around with my radio powered on and goggles on, never showed me or recovered telemetry.  GoPro took some damage but still works.  ND filter on the lens kept the lens from taking a rock hit.  It'll live.  Drone is 100% undamaged.

Video replay from GoPro reveals what happened:

I was running the upper canyon ridge, and had descended in an area I was previously climbing through.  While climbing out on a trajectory following the lower canyon was keeping me line of sight, coming from the upper canyon and diving below had put me in a different spot, and in the vid I can see I was definitely blocked by the hill.  Suddenly the video shows me turning back and diving, then the flight becoming upset as I struggled for control (almost impacted but then throttled skyward).  You can then see me stabilize when the video had come back, then dive for the road where I ended up finding it.

Mistakes made:

1.  I have a TBS GPS unit on my desk, not installed...smh
2.  I have no marking or labels on the drone with a phone number offering reward or anything
3.  I had an SD card IN my goggles, but wasn't recording the flight
4.  I have no buzzer on board
5.  Battery poorly secured
6.  Lost spacial awareness
7.  No LED's (or strobe beacon upon failsafe...do they make these?)

Summary and afterthoughts:

At the time of the incident, quite frankly I wasn't even upset.  I told my friend, who was off roading with me, that there were so many things I could've done differently, I deserved to lose it.  I certainly was going to give a fair effort to find it, but in the moment when everything happened so fast, your memory can play tricks on you.  Luckily I recalled the general direction and location I was flying, when all hell broke loose.  I suspected where in the vast canyon I should have been, and I at LEAST landed by a clear road, versus the middle of nowhere.  Had it been middle of nothing, I'd have never found it.  Being by a road at least gave me a SHOT of finding it.

Learning forward, given my use which is outdoors, semi-distance flying, capturing canyons/trails/peaks, etc flying with no safety measures for recovery was just plain stupid.  Then, not having the drone at least labeled, were it to crash in the middle of NOTHING, there are so many hikers and some random meth-heads out in the desert, it still gives a chance of locating it.  Once the battery disconnected, there was no chance of using anything to find it.  I even tried to use the GOPro app to connect to my GoPro, but never got close enough for it to happen, though in hindsight, I should've been trying harder.

Plan moving forward:

Even 2 of those 7 mistakes I made would've likely allowed a recovery.  Having all 7 in place though, would almost 100% guarantee a recovery, so I'm going to work on those immediately.  I almost lost about 650.00, so spending a little more on a buzzer, maybe some LED's or a strobe if they make such a thing is HIGH on my list before I will even fly it again.  It's grounded, until I at least check 4 of those 7 boxes.

Questions for the experienced:

-Do you have a common practice when you find yourself mid-flight and signal breaks up quickly.  Is your instinct to punch it for altitude or disarm or what?

-Any other details or methods you think are appropriate for my use?

I wanna cry so bad.

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So I'm a kid and I requested my parents to get me a new fc. The international banggood site was not shipping to my location so I thought of placing an order on my local banggood site. I had planned of getting a matek f722se https://www.banggood.in/Matek-System-F72...rehouse=CN through the international site but I couldn't place my order there so I went on my local site and ordered a F405 by mistake since it looked so similarSad https://www.banggood.in/Matek-Systems-Be...rehouse=CN. I wanna cry, I'm now scared of telling him lol.

SPRacing f3EVO FC HELP PLEASE

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Hi everyone I’m building my first drone. I am pretty confused by the SPRacing F3EVO FC. I am not sure if I connected the gnd and VCC ports from the PDB to the FC correctly. Also I am not sure how to connect the wires from the Lumenier 30A BLHELI Brushless ESC’s to the FC. The manual for the FC isn’t great and the manual for the ESC’s isn’t online.

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AIO fc boards in Inav?

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Does anyone know or heard anything about future support for AIO flight controllers for inav?
Would be wonderful to get inav in a tiny whoop or something small Smile
Several boards out there as well that allow for bigger craft configurations but being AIO save tons of weight. Nameless rc aio fc for example.

Thanks in advance for your time Smile

Taranis QX7 (black), FrSky NIMH, FrSky Charger, TX Case (2 months old)

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For Sale: Taranis QX7 (Black) with Extras!! $160 new, selling for $110 plus shipping

I bought this a couple months ago and have changed over to a different transmitter from FrSky for different ergonomics. This thing is perfect and comes with the following:
  • FrSky Taranis Q X7 2.4GHz 16CH Transmitter (Black) - Valued at $108 at GetFPV

  • FrSky FCX07 Charger with 2000mAh NiMH Battery for Q X7 / X7S Combo Kit - valued at $33 from GetFPV

  • FPV Drones XYZ Taranis Q X7 Case Carbon Fiber EVA Case - Valued at $26 on Amazon

  • Taranis Neckstrap
This is not the QX7S or the ACCESS version so for those who are looking to get into the hobby (16 channels) it is a great radio. I flew RC planes for over a decade and picked this up for getting into drones and whoops. It does support D8 and D16 so for those worried about RCVR compatibility with some of the small whoops - this is a slam dunk.

Perfect shape, like NEW, no scratches or signs of usage. I did loosen the ratchet detent for the throttle as I was flying a drone - I can restore prior to shipping if you will be flying a plane or heli and would like that option. It does have OpenTX 2.3.4 on it right now and I can flash it to any version prior to shipping if desired.

Here is a link to the FrSky website on the transmitter in case you want to read up or get specs: https://www.frsky-rc.com/product/taranis-q-x7-2/

Also - this is a VERY common transmitter so there are tons of YouTube video on setup, settings, etc which really made it easy!
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New Jumper T16

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Found a product page for a new Jumper T16  on the Helination website. 

Looks like it now will have USB C Charging and a folding handle. Still is about $30.00 more than the Radiomaster TX16S.

OpenLog at 500000 baud?

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To get my PID's tuned I got interested in using a Blackbox log with a tiny cheap OpenLog device. I couldn't get it to work well however, because I was using an old 2 GB SD card.

Now that I got a 32 GB SanDisk Extreme SD card I could finally get logs at 500 Hz if I set the serial port to 250000 baud, but at 1 kHz I still got a lot of missing information in the logs. Now it turns out that with the command line I can set the port to 500000 baud and get perfect logs at 1 kHz!

Is there anyone else here who has had the same experience? It bothers me that the 500000 (and 1000000) baud options are not available in the Betaflight interface, it goes straight to 1500000 baud and higher Confused

Going through the source code in GitHub I found out that the higher baud rates were added about a year ago: https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight...03149d22d3  and I (JoeriCapens on GitHub) made some comments there about the missing options. I'm curious if anyone else would find these useful?

Caddx Orca

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I purchased a caddx orca and am having some difficulty connecting to the app. I hold the power button for 5 seconds and the bottom right light comes on solid. Then I hold the WiFi button for 5 seconds and the yellow light blinks two or three times and both lights go out. I click connect on the app and it’s undiscoverable. Seems like it’s auto powering down. Hopefully someone else has the caddx orca on here and can provide me guidance. Thank you.

Dshot1200

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Trying to set dshot to 1200 but it only goes to 600 in BF. ESC has latest version and i'm on BF 4.1.3. ESC's are holybro tekko 35a on their website it says supports dshot 1200.
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