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That's how you were wrong

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This video is a mix of flights from this weekend and last since I didn't get much footage this weekend due to the technical difficulties. Big thanks goes out to fftunes for introducing me to the artist on the soundtrack. 

Thread/Video title, reference to sound clip at the end of the video.

Music is a 3 song mix.
Artists: Tab & Anitek
Album: Sights & Sounds
Songs are: Harlem Sunset, The Cohen Method, and Mayor Special
Check them out of soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/tab-anitek
Or better yet buy the album on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sights-Sounds-Tab...rds=anitek it's absolutely worth it!

Quad flown=Bumblebee


Keeping battery connected

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Any ideas on keeping an xt60 plug connected better on crashes.  Anytime I've had a harder crash my plug comes disconnected.  The battery itself is still strapped securely to the quad.  

This will be helpful for beacon if I get lost.  


Thx.

HGL RC F4 'Flytower'

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Hey guys, I wanted to take a little time to bring details of a new supplier in the RC industry, to your attention, I haven't used any products from HGL RC, but the competitive price point of their first wave of products has peaked my interest...

Please note that the links contained in this post are affiliate links and as such will (at no extra cost to you) make me some small commission on your order or purchase. Thank you.

The first of the products from HGL RC that I  will be looking at are their F4 Flytower FC's the XJB F410 and the XJB F425. 
Photo's on the left are the 410 and the right are the 425.



These 2 products contain, for the most part, exactly the same hardware specs.

  • Processor: STM32F405RGT6 MCU
  • IMU: MPU6000 connected via SPI
  • Flash: 16MB
  • Firmware: BetaFlight OMNIBUSF4
  • Integrated OSD: yes
  • Power supply: 2 - 4S LiPo
  • BEC output: 5V 3A
  • PCB thickness: 1.2mm
  • Compatible receiver: SBUS, PPM, DSMX receivers etc.
  • Function: supports buzzer, LED strip, voltage monitoring, ESC programming, PID tuning etc.
  • Dimension: 25 x 25mm
  • Mounting hole spacing: 20mm 



The different specs for the ESC's make the differences in name explanatory - 
The XJB 410 has 10 Amp 4-in-1 ESC (burst current of 12A) and only supports 2s & 3s LiPo batteries.
the XJB 425 has 25 Amp 4-in-1 ESC (burst current of 30A) and supports 2s - 4s LiPo batteries.
Both have the same EFM8BB2 processor flashed with BLHeli_S 16.5 firmware.



Sadly Gearbest have neglected to confirm the product weight in the item descriptions and the only reference comes from the packaging info which states (for both 410 and 425) - 'product weight - 0.0080 kg' - the details given in the 'Product Dimension and Weight' section have been known to be inaccurate.

It's at this point that I should start talking about prices, but I seem to have come over all 'Top Gear!'

There is another newcomer, FuriBee, albeit not quite as new as HGL RC their new F4 Flytower option does require a mention.


The FuriBee Flytower Plus Mini F4 FC boasts a 128MB flash compared to the 16MB offered by HGL RC, an updated EFM8BB21F16G ESC processor with 'new-generation' 3-in-1 TPN2R703NL MOSFETs. The 20 Amp (25A 5 second burst) 
4-in-1 ESC comes pre-flashed with firmware from BLHeli_S, confirms support of DShot Protocols, and supports 2s-4s LiPo & LiHV batteries. 


All 3 are running BetaFlight Omnibus F4 Firmware for the FC with an MPU 6000 IMU, the FuriBee has the same STM32F405RGT6 processor as the XJB's and the same 20mm x 20mm mounting, but the BEC on the Furibee offers 5v at 1A where the XJB's BEC provides 5v with a 3A max. The RX compatibility is the same too, with support for SBUS, PPM and DSMX .


So back to the prices then, (correct at time of posting) 
HGL RC XJB 410 Flytower F4 - $43.28 (Ships between Jun 4 - Jun 10)
HGL RC XJB 425 Flytower F4 - $55.64 (Ships between Jun 4 - Jun 6)
FuriBee Flytower Plus Mini F4 - $60.26 (In-Stock)

close / open (la la la)

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Bit more space here, most of the time... Thought i'd try my fav radio track of recent years.



The quad was flying fine btw, it's my fingers and legs that were shaking. Tongue

Flying to Music

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Anybody ever do that?  Fly to music playing in headphones?  If so, do you use that track when you publish?  Just think it would be cool to do!

Diatone SP1, SP2, SP3 VTX Audio Input Pin or Pad Location

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The Diatone VTX SP series specifications list audio input level of 0.5-2.0 Vp-p, but I don't see that there are any connector pins or pads to connect to. Does anybody know if the wiring diagram is misprinted, or the specifications? Or better, where do I connect an audio feed on the VTX so I can hear it in my headset? Thanks, Steve

Lumenier QAV-XS Build

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.jpg   qav 003.JPG (Size: 148.94 KB / Downloads: 4) I thought I'd do a quick build log of the stretch 220-X by Lumenier I'm working on.  I won't go into detail on this awesome frame, as JimmyLe813 has already done an in-depth review here.
http://intofpv.com/t-qav-xs-build-log-an...menier+QAV

Thought I'd just post a few pics to show those who are thinking of their first build that it's not near as intimidating as it might seem.

List of parts:

Lumenier QAV-XS frame
T-Motor 2205 2300 kv motors
DYS XSD 30 amp ESCs
BrainFPV RE1 F4 flight controller
Lumenier 4Power power distribution board
Lumenier CM-650 FPV camera
Immersion RC Tramp VTX
TBS Triumph VTX antenna

The only small fault I can find with this frame is that the camera angle is at 30 degrees which may be pretty drastic when just learning to fly (like me!) but I think if you got a camera with pin-outs on the top instead of bottom, you could get it to 20 degrees.  Other than that, it's a very sleek aerodynamic design that looks fast just sitting on the workbench.  Here's the first pic with just the 4Power board installed.

.jpg   qav 005.JPG (Size: 124.93 KB / Downloads: 4)

Smartshapes


Pitch Roll Yaw

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Shop Name: Pitch Roll Yaw
URL link: https://www.pitchrollyaw.net/
Shop Location: California, USA
Accept Paypal: Yes

Product Category/Specialty: All quadcopter (including Tiny Whoops)

Omnibus F4 Pro V2 fried?

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First time builder here and I think I have fried something on my flight controller.  Confused
This Omnibus F4 Pro V2 was purchased from BG and is surely a clone.. sorry I wasn't aware about cloned boards at the time. Poop Anyway I am ordering an original Flip V3 board replacement, but would like to attempt a repair on this clone for practice.

How it happened: I was connected to the BetaFlight configurator via USB, when I figured I would connect my 4S LIPO to test if the motors would spin up, big mistake?! It immediately disconnected and I have not been able to re-establish a connection since - I just get a solid green PWR LED, no flashing blue LED as before.
 
I have tried all combinations of the DFU button, USB only, LIPO then USB, desoldered the receiver then all of the ESC's, testing at each stage, etc.. I don't get any response on the USB, not even an unknown device.

I now have a bare flight controller and  if I plug in the 4S LIPO it starts to smell like something is ready to burn, so I have quickly disconnected and haven't tested further..

When plugged into USB, the IC at U6 gets too hot to touch, so I suspect that to be shorted or something close by. As per the photo, the marking on the chip is A2PL and "U6" on the Flip silk screen. There are a few of these IC's on the board.
 
I need help identifying and sourcing a replacement part but I have tried searching google, digikey, mouser, ebay, aliexpress, etc.. and can't seem to get any hits!!
 
If I measure the current with my keweisi it is saying the board is drawing about 0.2A. I can't find any shorted diodes on the board or obviously burnt components. just the A2PL that is roasting hot.


Please let me know what else I should test, how to find the A2PL datasheet. Thanks.







one of my best session so far

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This video is a little long but the last 1:40 are only crashes for my fans hehe.
I did have a blast last weekend finaly got my clearview and im totally happy with it on 25mw I can fly all over our place and i didn have any worries about loosing my fpv signal and that fact alone let me feel me so freeeeee, so I hope you enjoy the video as much I did have fun while watching!

Soon i will made a comparsion video beetween clearview and normal reciver!


ESCs have stopped playing the final beep sound

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First time builder here. I think I have fried my flight controller (post in the other thread) and after this my ESC's startup tune has changed, they are not playing the final beeeeep tone.

The ESC's are Racerstar RS30A V2 30A Blheli_S.

When everything was working they were making the typical:

da nah naah beep pause beeeeep tune as per ~7:15 in this video..

https://youtu.be/aZsFwetFjo8?t=7m15s

Now without the flight controller disconnected they just go:

da nah naah beep

Is this normal and just because there is no flight controller pairing up?

Where can I find more info about what the tones mean?

I can't find a BL Heli official home page (only the github code repo), manual or the official forum mentioned (but not linked) in the configurator?

Thanks.

baking a VTX cake

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someone tried to "dry" a VTX in an oven... haha  ROFL

SBUS inverters

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Just selling off the leftovers I have after making myself a couple.

With plugs, plain wire or naked, your choice.  I'm asking £4.50 including first class postage in the UK.  Will post elsewhere but buyer pays postage cost.



12cm (with plugs)
3.46g (with plugs)
input = blue band

Transmitter/Reciever/FC/Motor/Cleanflight problem

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I had a working quad, then unfortunately flashed my Naze32 V6 Acro Board with Cleanflight 2.0. I then experienced the following.

1. Motors would not arm (not beeping) when battery or USB from computer is connected to FC.
2. Receiver tab in Cleanflight showed input from Transmitter. (indicating tx is bound to rx)
3. Motors would not spin on input from tx.
4. Motors would not respond in Cleanflight Motor mode.
5. Flashing orange light on Naze board.

I then re-flashed the original version of Cleanflight , that was on my Naze prior to flashing 2.0, onto the board. I experienced the following.

1. Motors armed (beeping confirmed)
2. Motors would not spin with input from tx.
3. Flashing orange light on Naze board

Thinking the FC may be fried, I replaced it with a Naze 32 V Full Board.

I flashed the board with the latest version of Cleanflight 1.9 not wanting to use 2.0. I am experiencing the following.

1. Motors arm. (make expected beeping)
2. Motors not spinning up with input from tx.

Any one have any ideas to solve the the current problem?

I cannot connect to Cleanflight as 2.0 will not operate with 1.9. 
I have a Chromebook which automatically updated the Cleanflight app to 2.0 and does not support downloading the 1.9 version.


Thank you for any assistance.

aux switch issues

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Well, my first build, maiden flight went awesome, to say the least. I was able to fly first time, and fortunately crash and break a prop in the process. Success!!!

Now for my issue(s).

I noticed when I landed after flying for a minute, and tried to disarm via aux switch 1, it was not responding. After flipping the switch over a period of ten plus seconds it started to work again. It armed and disarmed with the switch as expected sitting there. Take off again, land, and same thing, after ten plus seconds it started working again. The same can be said for the other four aux channels that I have set up.

Other aux channels are beeper, flight mode, and failsafe.

Emax F3 with built in OSD
Flysky i6x with i6b receiver via ibus
Cleanflight v2.0.0
Dys xs20a esc's

I tried looking at every setting in Cleanflight but could not find anything that would cause this behaviour.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

TRAMP HV

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I joined a race last year where all the pilots were forced to use the tramp HV.  We got a "free" vtx along with the entry fee.  After using these vtx's for a year, I thought I would share my opinion about the vtx.

The cons:
The vtx itself is quite large,  I had trouble fitting it in some of my pod builds.  
The unit itself also gets quite hot, make sure you don't put it close to any devices that can melt.  
If not installed properly or glued the pigtail antenna can easily pop off during flight or a crash
The pigtail antenna is very thin and can be damaged easily.
It's more expensive than a vt03 from banggood.

The pros:
channel management is simplified using the "wand" or telemetry connection via transmitter
The tramps are the only surviving vtxs I have from last year.  They outlasted all my banggood vtxs and even fx799 series vtxs
In case of a bad crash the vtx antenna sma connector might tear off turning the unit into garbage.  The tramp's pigtail can easily be swapped out with a new one.
vtx signal is great for group flying, there's little to no channels bleeding if everyone ran a tramp.
adjustable power output
can and should be powered directly from lipo.

To this day,  I would say this is my favourite vtx to use.  I've heard complaints about the tramp changing channels when it gets hot while sitting idle.  I decided to experiment and see if this is true.  Check my video here:



Here's a test from rotorgeeks showing the changing channel issue:


Maybe someone here can explain this issue.  I'd also like to know what everyone else's experience is using a tramp hv.

Flying my QAV-XS in a new spot

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QAV-XS
KISS FC / KISS 24A ESCs
Tiger F40II - 2400KV Motors
HQ 5x4.3x3 V1S Props
Tramp VTX
RunCam Swift RR Edition
ThunderPower Adrenaline 1300mah Lipo
GoPro Session

DemonRC - Fury: Unleash the beast!

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A frame that we want to make you absolutely discover: DemonRC Fury 5X.
A 5-inch frame as versatile and practical, lightweight but strong, which is sure to make you shiver with pleasure!
unboxing.
Parcels arrive home DemonRc always packed, from Poland, in a large bubble envelope.

In the envelope, parts are enclosed in a cardboard box with the logo of the box.
Activity boxes I keep them all for storing small parts in the lab .. plus the logo is really nice!

Opening the box, everything is properly packaged and labeled.
More ... happiness .. a small pouch containing spare! DemonRC thank you !!!
 
In the main package containing the frame, full of small packages ...
Everything is really great well protected.
 
In a small package we find the 4 arms.
Unusual design, it changes us a little traditional style ZMR arm.

In another small package we find the two sides (pod) of the chassis, and all hardware in a zip bag,

In the third small package we have the bottom (underneath plates) and top plate (top plate) and reinforcements to the top.

In total, here are all the pieces that make up this splendid frame:

What have we received as "spare"? an arm and additional hardware (practice saw the nags we are)
 

Start with the parts that make up the frame structure:

The top plate also called "flat top" is 1.6mm thick.
The specs give the 1.5mm, it is near!

One of the plates from below also called "bottom plate"; There are two taking sandwiches arm.
Also given to 1.5mm, it is again very close!

Same for the second bottom plate.

Composition of the upper pod and alu hardware.
Note that the hardware in blue anodized aluminum (grade 7075 T6) a sufficient quantity is very light and as already noted in previous builds sometimes too light and soft as to break during a single clamping by hand.
However the black aluminum spacers are excellent ... we much prefer these spacers to those in much less resistant nylon

Carbon thickness that makes up the side portions of the POD.

At the great design arm, there are 4 ... still happy for QUADRICOPTER

The arms are given in specs to 4mm, again this is quite respected!
 
The 3K carbon is of excellent quality and will stand without evil villains crashes.
The actual weight of this V1 is measured 78,4g without electronics (all hardware included)

One notices immediately the practical side of this chassis which houses a support tilted camera for sports recording (a fixed runcam HD2 perfectly above).
Locations to accommodate your email is available in many places.
Equipment used for the build Mounting
Since I can not find this information in the installation manual very explicit at the mounting plate from below, here as I proceeded.
I placed the first bottom plate that makes up the sandwich with arms.
I passed four aluminum screws to hold all and I prepared the 4 arms.
Please note that the arms have a sense of investment or holes do not match !!!

I then filed the second bottom plate to complete the sandwich and I referred all.

4 screws that are placed in the frame of the center are slightly longer than those on the outside.
These longer screw 4 will maintain the struts that secure the flight controller and possibly 4 in 1 ESC.

Little tip for the POD.
To free it easily for maintenance, repair or cleaning without dismantling the entire electronics is over, I opted for the addition of a male / female connector servo-type.

Another tip: as my ESC 4 in 1 cicada does not have integrated 5V beak, I used 5V output my video transmitter to power the flight controller.
A tip more flight controller side: I used o-rings to absorb vibrations that could be transmitted to it via the nylon spacers.
For maximum damping, I filed down the first millimeters of the thread spacers to the struts of the net does not touch the edge of the flight controller mounting holes and I took the sandwich controller between the o-ring .
More than satisfied with any weight!

Video
This little baby develops a maximum power and proves hyper agile and very healthy in its flight behavior.
I Kifffff !!!!
Note that the PID are those original BF 3.1.7 (not yet taken the time to make the optimum settings) and I did fly 4S ... 5S is even a killer: p

Conclusion
This chassis is a real gem.
It offers a different design while having a practical side.
It's light but resistant thanks to an excellent carbon quality and thoughtful design.
Everything fits easily in without much fuss.
The adjustment of the room is perfect and burr (some should take a leaf) ...
We can give the desired angle to the camera depending on the flying style that we want to adopt and modify it at will.
Negative, that is my personal opinion, I always find these fastenings anodized aluminum too fragile!
Useful links
The installation manual
The product on the shop DemonRc

Review by Shunt Belua for Pimousse.be website

Emax RS2306 2400kV Motor Temperature,

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I just built a new quad using Emax RS2306 2400kV motors, and after a few test flights (just hover and a couple flips/rolls for 2 min or so), I tested the motor temperature and they were very hot. Not hot enough to burn, but hot enough that I was uncomfortable holding them. I've used Lumenier RX2206 2350kV and Emax RS2205 2300kV motors in other builds that I fly regularly, and I haven't experienced anything close to this issue before. The 2205s come down a little warm, but not hot. I'm using DSHOT150 (turned down from 600 per some random advice I stumbled across regarding motor temperature) on Armattan 30A ESCs. It has DAL Cyclone 5045 props on it. The FC is soft mounted with o-rings above and below board, motors are not.

I used a laser thermometer after 2 minute indoor hovers and found that the motors were hovering around 100-110 degrees F. All four of them were noticeably hot to the touch, but not quite as bad as the first flights (considering it was 2 minutes of hovering probably).

As far as what I've done to fix this, I've turned off the notch filter, tried turning down the I gain, and they're still very hot after flying for a bit. I haven't noticed anything particularly wrong with the tune, or the sound. I've checked the screws, they are not hitting the windings, it's a little hard to tell on the screws closer to the inside of the arm, but it still looks to not be touching (I also used the proper screw for the arm thickness). I'll be the first to admit that I'm not a great tuner yet, so I'm a little out of my depth here. But I'm very hesitant to fly this quad without figuring out if the temperatures are going to cause mid-flight problems.

Any thoughts or suggestions on fixes to hot motors? Or are the temperatures I'm seeing OK?
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